Fighting to escape Bucharest this morning, I realise I have little inkling what it is like to actually live here. For starters, it took me ten minutes with the help of the manager of the Z Hotel (the sticking up modern building top centre above) to persuade some drivers to move their cars from completely … More Day 9: Black Sea side
Staying in the heart of Bucharest, I have a sense of both the cultural strength of Romania and its contested history. It may be 25 years since the Revolution here, but there is still a struggle for the soul of this nation. Another demonstration is taking place today outside the Government Building in the Plata … More Day 8: Capital Considerations
I stayed in Craiova because it was en route to Bucharest, but stayed on to catch the Art Museum in the morning, since I had arrived too late to gain admission. This rococo, hundred-year old former palace had hosted royalty and a variety of historical events, including the signing of the Treaty of Craiova in … More Day 7: Craiova to Bucharest
Sterling’s newfound strength in Europe made a stay at Beograd’s best Communist-era hotel, the Moskva, an acceptably modest indulgence, red carpet and gargantuan breakfast included. Not only did the nomenklatura stay there but so – according to the portraits which line the corridors – did a galaxy of stars, from Monica Vitti to Laurence … More Day 6: Beograd to Craiova
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